Start/Finish – Northern Benin
Our tentative plan is to both start and end our journey in Natitingou – one of the largest cities in northern Benin. We’ll begin with a short, two to three day loop around the Western side of the Atacora department that looks to be anything but a gradual warm-up, with most of the route up and down the changing slopes of the Atacora Mountains. Along this loop we’ll see waterfalls in Tanguieta and Tata Somba villages near Boukoumbe. After returning to Natitingou, we’ll begin making our way south, hugging the Togo border.
Overall, the
northern regions of Benin are typically much drier and hotter than the rest of
the country, and much of the landscape is savanna. We should get some relief from the heat
during our trip since the strong Harmattan winds begin pushing through the
region in December, though these winds also bring ridiculous dust storms that
will turn outfits of even the earthiest tones a shade darker.
Central Benin
Central Benin
is full of winding trails that pass through cashew and shea tree forests, and alongside
beautiful ‘collines’ (or ‘mini-mountains’) that seem to jump out of the ground
entirely unprecedented by any other natural change in elevation. If ecotourism were ever to take off in Benin,
this is where all of the nature trail enthusiasts would flock to; it’s really
beautiful.
For the
southward portion of the trip we will be staying close to the Togolese border,
and on the northward return we will be near that of Nigeria. While heading south we will make sure to stop
and climb at least one of the mini-mountains, likely somewhere near Otola. And on the way back north, we will be
watching our backs along a few of the secondary roads that are apparently
notorious for bandits.
(Note: The word collines technically means “hills”
in French, but “hill” is a bit of an understatement for how big these
geological formations really are.
Nonetheless, they are all too small to be technically classified as
mountains – hence the term “mini-mountain” which I’ve taken the liberty to
use)
Southern Benin
The south of Benin is sure to be packed with a variety of diverse encounters. This area of the country is much more densely populated, so there are more paths to choose from, more people to run into, and more things to see. Voodoo and traditional beliefs are much more prevalent here, making it easier to witness an interesting ceremony, find a shrine or sacred fetish, or even see a so-called spirit such as an Egungun or Zangbeto. (Don’t know what those are? Tune in and I’ll definitely explain it with time!)
And even
though the south technically does have wet and dry seasons, to my experience it
always seems to be lush and vibrant with verdure. Fields in this region are packed with palm
trees, orange and lemon groves, and pineapples.
If you want delicious fruit in Benin, you’ll definitely find it
here. Streams and tributaries also snake
through the area, and one must cross all three of the major rivers of Benin to traverse
the country from side to side.
We will make
it to the half-way point of our cross-country voyage on this stretch of the
trip, in the coastal city of Grand Popo. Upon travelling there, we will be stopping in
Abomey – the Voodoo capital of Benin – to see the Palace of Danhomey and a
three storied Voodoo temple shaped like a chameleon. We will also be making
about 50 kilometers of the trip via canoe, starting from a village established
alongside the Mono River and ending just before the Bight of Benin.
After a day of
recuperation spent in Grand Popo, we will make our way east, biking alongside Lake
Aheme and eventually finding a way to ford the Oueme River. We’ll visit the stilt villages near Dango and
continue the trip upstream the Oueme, eventually reaching the town of Ketou.
